Natural Wonders of Newfoundland

Wreckhouse and the Human Wind Gauge

May 25, 2007 Mary Williams

Locals claim that Wreckhouse is the second windiest place in the world, and it's not hard to believe; the winds have been known to gust in excess of 200km per hour here!

Channel Port-aux-Basques, situated on the southeast tip of Newfoundland, is the entry point to the province by sea. When you get off the ferry, there’s over 900km of road open to you, but wherever you go from here, you must first traverse Wreckhouse, an area of austere beauty, intriguing history and some of the fiercest continual winds ever known.

The Wreckhouse Effect

It’s the unique geography that makes this area legendary. Wreckhouse is a large expanse of flat, barren land that runs between the Long Range Mountains and the ocean. Southeast winds, pushed by offshore storms, funnel through the mountains, building up pressure as they are squeezed into narrow gulches in the rock. Once released into the valley, the winds quickly gain speed, sometimes exceeding 200km per hour. That’s the equivalent of a category two hurricane!

Driving Through Wreckhouse

Sound frightening? It can be, yet residents from both Channel Port-aux-Basques and the nearby Codroy valley travel this section of the Trans Canada highway each day without mishap, and hundreds of tourists drive through Wreckhouse every year without even knowing of its existence. The south-easterly winds that cause the Wreckhouse effect grow strongest during the winter and spring months, so if you’re visiting in the summer, chances are you won’t get caught in a gale.

When the winds do blow, driving a larger vehicle, like an RV or cube van, can be a little tricky; it’s more of an adventure than a true peril, but many people who don’t need the adrenaline prefer to stop over until the winds pass. Tractor trailers experience the most danger and are often seen lying on their sides along the highway.

The Human Wind Gauge

Like most everything else in Newfoundland, Wreckhouse has a rather interesting history attached to it. In the days when trains still ran here, the Wreckhouse miles were a stressful haul for the engineers. In 1939, tired of having the trains blown off the tracks, the rail company hired a local trapper to advise them of the wind conditions. Lockie MacDougall lived at Wreckhouse, and claimed the uncanny ability to ‘smell’ the wind. Given a telephone and twenty dollars a month salary, Lockie sent warning of approaching southeasters. Until his death in 1965, Lockie delayed hundreds of trains and saved as many lives during his employ as a ‘human wind gauge’.

Wreckhouse Scenery

To be sure, the wind isn’t the only awe-inspiring thing about the Wreckhouse area. The scenery is striking in its austerity, and as breathtaking as the wind itself. Craggy mountains—the highest on the island at 1700 feet—rise from the valley floor like giant stone sentinels. From their base, the barrens stretch away to the vast Atlantic, giving the traveler a sense of timelessness, of being isolated and small, yet somehow limitless. The barrens themselves are dotted with tuckamore, trees severely twisted and stunted by the wind’s force. It’s a unique and haunting sight.

Hiking or Biking via the T’Railway

For those who enjoy hiking, the Newfoundland Railway bed has now become the Newfoundland T’Railway, part of the Trans Canada Trail. It’s a nicely groomed hiking and biking path that runs the entire length of the island, beginning in Port-aux-Basques. On foot or by bicycle, the 23 km section of the T’Railway that runs through Wreckhouse is a great way to immerse yourself in the great wide open expanse of this stunning area.

While a trip through Wreckhouse is a fitting introduction to the extraordinary natural wonders of Newfoundland, the winds can blow up quickly, so it’s advisable to check local weather warnings before you hit the road.

The copyright of the article Natural Wonders of Newfoundland in E Canada Travel is owned by Mary Williams. Permission to republish Natural Wonders of Newfoundland in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

Lockie MacDougall's Home at Wreckhouse